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The surfing ‘path’ that I like most is being shaped by Dane Reynolds, Dan Malloy, Greg Long, Bethany Hamilton, Carissa Moore, Julian Wilson, Brian Conley, Dave Rastovich, Belinda Baggs…Tell us about your relationship with Patagonia. I feel great knowing that my biggest sponsor is one of the most environmentally active and aware companies on the planet. And a fat twinnie that another long-time friend and shaper, Sean Tully made.
As far as surfboard design and construction, I’ve been inspired by Glen Kennedy, Rich Pavel and the diverse crew of craftsmen that are pushing surfboard design to the next level—not to mention all the laminators, sanders, polishers and fin guys who are constantly innovating their techniques. I think its about seven to eight years since I started shaping.
I was working at Kennedy Surfboards’ retail shop and I wanted to try out more boards, but just couldn’t afford it.
Since then, my life has been in warp speed trying to catch up for the years I missed out on with the lifestyle. I learned on a board borrowed from a friend for a few months, then finally bought a used… Because I had such a different upbringing without any involvement in surfing, I was an avid basketball and baseball player, and looked up to basketball and baseball stars of the time, but was never really interested in mimicking any specific player.
Once I discovered surfing, I admired Taylor Knox for his disciplined approach and powerful style.
That’s when I knew I was sucked in to building surfboards. The boards I shape are the boards I ride, but with the help of our team, we are constantly expanding, experimenting and dialing in our working quiver. What is the greatest thing you have learned in your life? My favorite spot was in Del Mar, where we lived during most of my high school years.
There are a lot more things to learn out in the world than in a small room in school. What meaning does surfing hold for you and how has it changed your life? My i Pod got stolen, along with a couple surfboards, from my van in my driveway. My parents rented a place one house back from the beach on 24th St and I had a pack of super fun friends and neighbors.
Do you have any regrets or wish you had done something differently? Surfing and its lifestyle has played a really important role in my life. I’m fortunate that I get to play around with a lot of new designs. Pandora is usually on while driving—Tristan Prettyman, Stone Mason, Sara Bareilles, Lani Trock, Adele, Jason Mraz. Nina Simone, Nouvelle Vague, Jorge Ben, Amy Winehouse, Crying Time by Ray Charles, The Mattson 2, Johnny Cash, Brenda Lee, B. That house became our ‘hub’ because my parents were so relaxed and easy-going. I’d saved up money in a little green box in my bedroom at our house in Point Loma where we lived then.
I’ve met my other half (Carla Rowland), some great friends and traveled to places I always dreamed of. My favorite board constantly changes, but at the moment it’s my orange channel bottomed Twin Arc Tail Quad. I’m diggin’ the raw sound of live acoustic tracks right now. I am most grateful for Carla for standing by me and pushing me to do what am capable of, and my family for supporting and believing in me. I remember seeing lowriders at the car shows when we lived in Chino. I believe the very first board we got was when we moved back to California. What was the feeling you had when you first stood up on a surfboard? I remember lots of beach break beatings learning to surf, hot sand, riding bikes, summer high tide body surfs, sneaking into local jacuzzis, harassing the poor lifeguards, food in the fridge, lots of freedom…not too much to complain about. One day, I got my big brother, James, to drive me to South Coast Surfboards in Ocean Beach.
Of all the places you have traveled to, what place in particular stands out and why?
Each of the great places that I have been fortunate to visit holds a special place in me. all stand out in their own special way, so no particular place stands out. Carla, family, people that are ready to lend a helping hand, anyone that pushes surfing and surfboard progression while still appreciating the history and old school traditional ways (like the art of trim, glide and flow).